Friday, March 21, 2008

YES-bu

YES YES YES!

If you haven't been to Nobu (Nobu Matsuhisa, 105 Hudson Street), call immediately and make a reservation for this calendar day, next month (that's their reservation policy). You won't be disappointed.

Open 14 years, and in my opinion- still the best there is, ever was, and perhaps ever will be. I had dined at Nobu Next Door quite a few times before actually nailing down a reservation in the formal dining room that worked with my schedule. That said, I first experienced the perfection last July. I couldn't wait to get back (although it did take 8 months). Well, the first time was amazing, and this time was just as good. For me, consistency is one of the most important qualities a restaurant can have - especially a restaurant of this caliber - and it is a goal any establishment should strive for. Every dish is carefully constructed and plated. It is so evident that the same care and dedication goes into the first, the last and every dish in between. You would think that after 14 years of pumping out spectacular plates to an always-packed restaurant, something would slip, at least one dish... not here, that's clearly just not the Nobu style.

The Nobu How-To: (because although I can rave about it all I want, if you don't place the right order, I can't be held responsible)

  • Start with their Spicy Miso Chips topped with Tuna: (2 to an order, which you can order any multiple of, but 2 should be enough for a taste). They are superb and to whet your palate and get you going- they do just the trick.
  • Yellowtail Jalepeno Sashimi: All I can say delicious. The jalepeno packs a punch, so prepare yourself, but the yellowtail is so fresh that it just melts in your mouth. There is the perfect amount of soy ponzu marinade in the dish.
  • Toro Tartar: This is like heaven in a bowl. It is topped with Sturgeon Caviar, and sits in a spicy wasabi/toro broth. There are shards of the toro incorporated into the marinade so it is literally impossible to take one bite absent of the delicious toro. (toro is the fattiest part of the tuna, the belly, and therefore the tastiest. It is also the smallest proportion of the tuna.) The wasabi in the broth can certainly clear out your sinuses, so make sure not to take a big spoonful of the broth unless you are ready...
  • New Style Sashimi: can be ordered with white fish or salmon (or my favorite- half and half). The marinade is hot in the plate as the sashimi is laid, so the raw fish sears itself ever so slightly. It has a richer taste than that of regular sashimi and should not be left off your order.
  • Fresh Fluke Sashimi with Dried Miso: I was turned onto this plate in July. I had never ordered it, and the server highly recommended it (I usually ask at least one question or request one recommendation from the server. In theory- they should be the experts... I mean, they are surrounded by the food day in and day out. This also a good way to help you decide if you are undecided between two items). It is like nothing you have ever tasted. When they say fresh, they are not exaggerating- it tastes like the fluke just swam over from Japan. The dried miso makes the dish, along with the dried garlic bits that you can opt to add or not, creating a crunchy texture and giving an explosion of flavor.
  • Lobster Salad with Shiitake Mushrooms: Another newcomer, it was welcomed with open taste buds. They certainly don't skimp on the serving of lobster- it's a whole tail and then some. Fresh as can be and even more delicious. There is a bed of greens in the center, and sliced mushroom caps around the edge of the plate. The Nobu Spicy Lemon Dressing is not knock-your-socks-off spicy, but it definitely gives the extra zing necessary to bring all the tastes together. It all dances in your mouth, perfectly in sync.
  • The Rock Shrimp Tempura with Creamy Spicy Sauce: Although we left this one off last night, it is a staple for any Nobu virgin. Simply irresistible, it is. The most striking element is once again the consistency- this time in terms of just the right amount of tempura, flash frying, and dressing (it seems far too easy to overdress this dish, yet it never happens... back to the Nobu phenomenon).
  • Wagyu Beef Skewer: Wagyu (wa means Japanese and gyu means cattle, or "Japanese Cattle") Beef is the cattle equivalent of Champagne (meaning that only grapes turned into sparkling from the Champagne region of France can be considered Champagne - all else is just sparkling wine, or prosecco from Italy and cava from Spain) in the sense that Wagyu cattle are indigenous to Japan and yield several breeds (one of which being the famed Kobe beef). Although Japan rejects any international cattle as Wagyu, the industry refers to any beef with Wagyu genetics as Wagyu regardless of its national origin. I once heard that their special diet consists of beer and sake, and daily routine of listening to music, receiving massages and being fanned by Japanese women (ok, I might have been embellishing a teeny bit on the last ritual, but the others I am pretty sure are true). In any case, this meat is considerably fattier and more marbled than that to its American counterpart (ironic, isn't it?) and therefore more tender and juicy, thus enhancing the flavor. This skewer is to die for. It also has two slices of scallions in between the three pieces of beef. It was so good that we had to order a second... The taste explodes in your mouth to the extent that you want to keep chewing, and never swallow or lose that flavor.
  • Broiled Black Cod with Miso: I'm sure by now (unless you've been living under a rock) you have at least heard of the "black miso cod," or even tried some knock-off variation. This is the real deal. The filet is so perfectly cooked that the pieces just slide right off and onto your fork. The perfect marination leaves just enough of the miso after broiling. This dish is more of an experience than anything else.
  • Chocolate, Peanut Butter and Banana: I know, I can't believe it either! Is there anything more amazing than this combination? This dish might speak for itself, but I do want to add one detail- the presentation is spectacular. Although I knew that this dessert would be delectable, I was not planning on the elegant appearance. I feel like specifically describing it would be like telling you the end of a movie before you've seen it... you will just have to go and find out yourself.
  • Bento Box: I skipped this dessert last night because I tried it back in July. I can't give as much of a detailed play by play, but I do remember it being unbelievable. It's Nobu's version of a warm molten chocolate cake with green tea ice cream. If you are a chocolate souffle lover, this should not be missed.
For drinks, I highly suggest the signature Sake Martini (how can you go wrong with vodka and sake?) There is also a rare sake that only they serve, imported from Japan. Ask your server which one based on your particular sake tastes (smooth vs. dry vs. fruity, etc.) but you can't go wrong with Nobu's sake selection. I would also recommend a bamboo of your choice (after a cocktail, splitting a bamboo -which is about 14 oz. or 400 mls. - should get sufficiently tipsy, you probably don't need more).

The server responsible for my table in July was amazing. She was a Japanese girl who was so educated and skilled- she knew just about everything about the menu, was approachable and happy to help or guide us through our meal. She offered suggestions and guidance without being overbearing and making us feel like we were talking to a used car saleswoman. The service was extremely attentive without being intrusive- that's what service should be: you should never be looking or wanting for something during your meal, yet you should also never feel the service presence. She hit it spot on. Last night, we had a decent server- he was more hands off, and less apt to offer up assistance. He facilitated our meal well, and spaced out the dishes perfectly. Although not the best, I can't complain about anything specific- there just wasn't the same connection I had with the first server. I felt like she really took ownership of her position in my dining experience.

The ambiance is nice yet minimalistic at Nobu- bamboo surrounds you on all sides. Although it may take one month to the calendar day to get a table, rest assured that when you show up there will be no waiting at the bar (in fact there isn't one to wait at) and no standing around. You will be shown directly to your table (and if you are lucky enough to get the corner table, it's quite romantic).

Domo Arigato, Nobu; and Kumpai to the rest of you!

Mark: A+

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Generation Y-Not Take Out?

For me, the question is take out... or not to take out.

During the five years I spent living in Manhattan prior to my European stint, I may have been the queen of take out and delivery. Like many other New Yorkers, I found my life to be so consistently busy that I just couldn't possibly even fathom the idea of cooking after my long, laborious day! So, I had my pile of take out menus of neighborhood restaurants who offered delivery and, of course, my local favorites. I had no problem ordering any and all of my meals, not even flinching at the financial implication. I might have been able to convince you that taking out from a restaurant was actually cheaper than doing the grocery shopping and cooking yourself... you probably would have bought it (my argument, that is). When I did manage to go to the food store (I will leave out the part where I roamed the isles, essentially clueless), I think my produce went bad before I even remembered it was there.

Fast forward to my first night living in Spain with a Spaniard and two Italian girls... We had all just settled in, unpacked our belongings to some degree, claimed a lone drawer in the bathroom vanity and finally started chatting in our small galley kitchen. It was slowly approaching dinner time hour, so I innocently asked, "Where should we go for dinner?" (mind you, this is probably the only sentence I could string together thus far in my Spanish language undertaking). The response of blank stares was remarkable. What I could understand as the response was a confused question of, "You mean, you need to go to the supermarket? We have already gone, and you can eat dinner with us if you like." That was one of many, many realizations that I wasn't in Kansas anymore, and I was in for an adventure.

A number of my fondest memories happened right there in that same small galley kitchen, making lunch or dinner, sitting with my roommates, and laughing at only Dios knows. I quickly learned what was easy to make, what I liked to eat, and way more about nutrition. I can honestly say that I learned how to live a more balanced and nutritious life (in so many ways, but I'm sticking to cooking in this blog). I learned how to cook.

I also learned that eating a meal is not about shoving the food in your face when you get a free moment in hopes that the hunger will dissipate. It is about preparation and enjoyment both of food and life, yet also company. If you slow things down, you might just be amazed at how wonderful everything can be.

Back to the big city... I did vow when I moved back never to order delivery. I felt that if I was in fact too tired from my day to prepare something for myself, and I had not used forethought that previous weekend to have some meals prepped AND I had nothing I could quickly whip up in my refrigerator (I have become really good at that), I could certainly walk to whatever restaurant I craved, and enjoy a meal with a friend. If that didn't sound feasible, I could certainly walk to pick up my dinner- I mean, the delivery person does it... The other half of this argument is that if I had enough time to order and wait for the delivery, I had enough time to make something. What this comes down to is where your priorities lie and what you like to do. I hear so many New Yorkers complain that they just don't have enough time to cook. They start talking about going to the food store, and that takes a half hour and by the time they are home, after making something- they could be eating dinner at midnight! Now, for some professions- I know this is true, but for the vast majority- I don't buy it (again, the argument, that is). Everyone has at least one day off to go to the food store and stock up for the week. And just think- if everyone aligned with these ideas, imagine the sever drop it would cause in obesity, diabetes, heart disease, perhaps even cancer. But a dream is just a dream...

Last night, however, I had the pleasure of hosting my favorite niece/goddaughter. My brother and sister-in-law came over to my humble abode to spend some time together. With a baby, specifically this baby, my whole high road went out the window. It was a little much to take the baby out to a restaurant at 8pm, so we ordered in. (It was sushi, however, and as good a cook I am, there is no way I make anything close to sushi!) I did also walk to the restaurant and place my order there rather than phone it in and wait for it to be delivered. I also think once in a blue moon is not the end of the world.

Moral of the story: everything in moderation.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Mom met me in the Borough

Some say the turf is cursed at what is now Borough Food and Drink (12 E. 22nd Street) and what used to be Caviar and Banana before it was the infamous Rocco's 22. I suppose the lease on the space is never-ending, diametrically opposed to the success of any of the aforementioned concepts. I happen to have loved the Brazilian fusion concept of Caviar (and Chef Claude Troisgros is no joke), but I think it was ahead of its time in the concept restaurant arena.

So here we are at Borough. It is a nice neighborhood spot seemingly unattached to any real cuisine or geographical stigma (unless of course you consider the 5 boroughs of New York to be a specific cuisine...). The space is beautiful- they did a nice job creating a warm rustic feel, billiard table and all, although the footprint remains the same from Rocco's and Caviar.

I must admit- the menu is quite limited, and a bit scattered. The starters were eclectic-sounding, and not necessarily in a good way. I tried the shrimp summer rolls: they were surprisingly tasty, very fresh and a nice portion (3 long rolls to an order, halved). The accompanying dipping sauce was tangy without being overwhelming. I then moved on to their Bibb lettuce with goat cheese, blood orange salad. Quite good, plenty of greens, not overdressed. My mom tried their striped bass. The portion was on the smaller side, especially considering the price, but passable. Cooked well but herb crusting was on the heavier side. The chef also went a little overboard with the oil and jus that remained in the plate. Potatoes so so, and green beans are hard to ruin.

Once again, passed on dessert (if you've noticed, I don't have the biggest sweet tooth), but espresso was good! Bottled wines were limited, and glasses even more so. We had the syrah which was good.

Service was ok but the waiter was a bit overbearing and on the annoying side (he "loved" just about everything on the menu... not so helpful).

They also offer a happy hour special (only at the bar) which features 2 for 1.

Mark: B

Happy Eating and Que Aproveche!

Monday, March 17, 2008

Weekend Trajectory

Friday night, I relish staying in... This Friday included, but I did run out for a quick bit at Republic (37 Union Square West) which is great for just that. Although the restaurant doesn't take reservations, and was quite packed, we found a quick spot at the counter. This ambiguously "Asian" restaurant's tagline is fitting- Think Noodles: Fresh, Fast and Affordable. Everything from their small plates, soups to noodle and rice dishes range from $6.00 - $9.00 and are surprisingly tasty without that strange heaviness that is closely associated with Chinese food. Started out with the steamed vegetable dumplings (VERY tasty and not heavy at all) and the spicy seafood salad (which is tangy but not too spicy, and has jicama which really adds something). Our starters were followed by shrimp pad thai (if you see the seafood trend, it was due to Friday night of lent) which was really tasty- a little too much sauce if you ask me, but nonetheless really good, and the glorified miso soup (with soba noodles, tofu, spinach and sprouts) which was nice if you're in a hot soup mood. They also serve decent sake at a reasonable price, again- refreshing. However, the most striking aspect of this restaurant is that for at least 8 years (I know I'm dating myself, but I did try this restaurant nearly a decade ago), they have not changed their prices- impressive, isn't it?
Mark: B-

Saturday night brought me to the Upper East side (I know, I know- but friends will do that to you...), which should be all about Vespa (1625 2nd Ave). Their focus on small plates is appreciated when starting out with dinner, keeping in mind the drinks awaiting you. Great ambiance, generally good service (when it gets really busy, the wait staff gets frazzled), decent wine list (even by the glass), and priced accordingly. I had the seared scallops accompanied by a shaved fennel and arugula salad, adorned with blood orange slices. Really solid- very tasty, cooked well, good size and perfect portion. My friend tried the roasted chicken (that's nearly all she eats, and the only item she will order in a restaurant) which could have used some fingerling potatoes, but she enjoyed it all the same. The tiramisu contained too cream,but the espresso is to die for- imported from Italy, and made just strong enough. All in all, a solid local establishment serving good food, consistently. (It also boasts the new Bar Vespa serving cheese plates, even smaller plates, wine and cocktails- definitely a place you want to check out)
Mark: B

Ode to Sunday... Sunday is also usually a stay-in, cook for the week, prepare lunches, do laundry sort of night, but a special occasion will even get me out on Sunday. So will Po. Jeff's mom loves Mario Batali so I thought Po just the thing. Batali opened this restaurant with others in 1993, and relinquished chef-ownership about 7 years ago (right when he started to blow up on the restaurant scene). However, his menu remains mostly intact. I found this cozy restaurant about 6 years ago when it was written up in Time Out NY's "Best Entrees Under $25," which it can still boast. I have been to Po a number of times and it is never a disappointing meal. I started out with the radiccio, apple, walnut, and gorgonzola salad- there are no surprise ingredients, so if you like all of those things, you're in luck. I will say that there was a tad too much dressing, but that's something I'm particularly sensitive to, so perhaps it was just right for anyone else. The mussels and clams (one of their signature dishes) was unbelievable. The sauce was just a touch spicy and very flavorful. For main course, I selected the porcini-crusted roasted cod. I have ordered this before, and just love it. It comes on a bed of garlic white beans and bok choi. This is a really solid plate, portion is on the smaller side, but you will be surprised how those beans are deceivingly filling. I also tried the Cornish hen, another signature dish. This was an incredible meal- on a bed of Israeli couscous. The robust flavor was decadent, and overall nice to step away from your usual suspects. Although we opted out on dessert, the detailed-oriented staff remembered my note about Jeff's mom's birthday, and brought over a wonderfully rich frozen chocolate bar- almost like a fondant- with a candle. Now that's service! Again, though, the true highlight of the night was the wonderful conversation - even banter, at times - and general comfort that the restaurant's ambiance aided. This is one that should be added to anyone's list.
Mark: B+

As always, Que Aproveche! and enjoy!

Saturday, March 15, 2008

The Fig

Probably my favorite lunch spot is Fig and Olive (420 W. 13th street), which I frequent at least weekly, should absolutely be given a try. For literally the *best* vegan soup there is, really great salads, wonderful paninis, and delectable small plates/tapas- this is your place. It's pretty low-key, not too expensive, and the olive oil trio tasting is a nice touch- given upon arrival, venturing away from the run of the mill bread and butter. Wonderful for lunch, nice setting for dinner if you are going out for drinks in the Meatpacking District directly to follow, and just overall nice.
Mark: B

Friday, March 14, 2008

One Craft-y Meal

I find Craft (Tom Colicchio, 43 E. 19th Street) to be a fitting inaugural post. After dining last night, I have nothing but good things to say about this Flatiron gem.

First, I will address the reservation process. As an Opentable aficionado, I try to rack up as many points as possible to cash in for my gift certificate, so I started there (mind you, I do suggest that you have a bit of forethought- 2-3 weeks should do the trick for any day/time). I did, however, have to alter the reservation time- which was no problem. So, first impression- well done.

Upon arrival, I ordered a drink at the bar (with prompt service), and awaited my date. This gave me time to observe the ambiance, and overall layout of the restaurant. What I first found impressive, was the expansive wine collection- cleverly dispersed in the walls throughout the entire space. Next, I appreciated how the alignment and spacing of the tables was organized in such a way, coupled with the vaulted ceilings (giving way to nice acoustics), to give a sense of intimacy and privacy while still feeling the thriving pulse of the restaurant.

The tables are actually quite large, to aid in the mix-matching, a la carte, share-style compilation, or craft, of your meal. So at first glance, you may feel far away from your fellow diner, when the food comes (everything is placed strategically in the center, so like it or not- you're sharing) the space is appreciated (no juggling of plates or feeling squished).

We started with an arugula salad (toasted pine nuts, grated Parmesan cheese and a lemon vinaigrette) and marinated fluke (in extra virgin olive oil, with blood orange bits). The salad was so fresh, perfectly dressed, the right amount of cheese while the pine nuts gave it that extra flavor. The fluke was incredible- again, supremely fresh and complimented with just the right amount of blood orange to give that citrus-y zest.

As a mid-course, we shared the terrine of foie gras. Terrine happens to be my favorite preparation of foie gras- and this was no disappointment. The seasoning of rock salt, cracked pepper and drizzle of olive oil made this terrine just melt in your mouth. And I preferred their nutty bread, given to the table, over the brioche toast- but that's just personal preference call.

The Diver Sea Scallops were quite possibly the most delicious to date (rivaled only by Gordon Ramsay's the Maze)- although only 3 to a portion (which comes out to roughly $10 per scallop), they were the biggest I have seen. The apparent care that went into the slow, low-burner pan searing of each scallop, with just enough golden color for the flavor to pop, yet melt in your mouth, was palpable. A must try- enough said. In the true spirit of consistency, the 12 ounce sirloin was also cooked to perfection. I must confess that I am not your foremost carnivore but this steak was incredible. To complete our "Crafted" meal, we sampled the brussels sprouts (they usually come with bacon, an ingredient the waiter alerted me of due to its absence on the printed menu, and was happy to remove), pureed potatoes (an absolute staple), and the mushroom assortment (probably the only thing in the entire meal we could have left out). Side dishes: slam dunk.

As you can imagine by now (and we didn't finish everything), we were totally stuffed, but in a good way- not that "I can't breathe, everything hurts" sort of way. So we regrettably passed on dessert.

The service was attentive, courteous and unobtrusive. The sommelier was knowledgeable, friendly and unintimidating (as so many of them aren't).

In closing- go on a date, go for a celebratory meal, sample as many things as you can, and most importantly: enjoy your company (because at the end of the meal- that's all you have left).

Que Aproveche!

Mark: A